Being a teenager is hard enough as it is, so why add skincare woes to the no doubt growing list of life confusions?
We chat to Emma Hobson, Education Manager for the International Dermal Institute, about the most effective ingredients for problematic complexions, choosing the ideal exfoliant, and how to best care for teenage skin.
BH: What is salicylic acid and how does it benefit teens?
EH: Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid, that has become a key ingredient in exfoliants and products made to address acne and congested skin. It is extremely effective in preventing blackheads from forming, as it is able to successfully penetrate the skin and exfoliate deep inside the inner opening of the follicle where the blackhead forms. As well as this, its great anti-inflammatory properties also help the skin to heal spots much quicker.
You should find salicylic acid in all products for face and body specifically formulated for teen acne. The maximum strength available in retail products is 0.5 per cent.
BH: How will teens know if their skin doesn’t need these active ingredients?
EH: When the product is used, their skin will become sensitised (feel itchy, appear red, or burn on contact), or their complexion may become red and flaky and start to peel.
BH: What should teens consider when choosing an exfoliant?
EH: If they have an oily, congested skin, but aren’t prone to actual pimples, they should choose a granular scrub that will remove the congestion and help keep the skin clear. However, if they suffer from several breakouts they will need to opt for a product that doesn’t rub or scrub their skin (as this could cause further irritation), but rather sits on the skin’s surface and exfoliates the dead skin away through a chemical process. This is also a great option for teenagers with sensitive, yet pimple-prone skin.
BH: What’s your best overall advice for teens and their skin regime?
EH: Teenagers should focus on keeping their skin clean, keeping any excess oil and congestion under control, and hydrating and protecting their skin against the environment. The products they use need to be fragrance-free (so that they don’t cause irritation or sensitivity), oil-free (the last thing a teen needs is extra oil in their moisturiser), and contain anti-bacterial and deep-cleansing ingredients.
My five suggested skin steps are:
1.) Use a wash-off cleanser. 2.) Spritz with a hydrating toner. 3.) Exfoliate (either manually or chemically). 4.) Use a nighttime treatment for breakouts and let the product go to work while you sleep. (Try:Dermalogica Clean Start Bedtime for Breakouts). 5.) Always apply a mattifying, oil-free moisturiser with an SPF to protect your skin.
Dos and Don’ts for teen skincare
Do: choose products that are non comedogenic (meaning, they won’t cause breakouts).
Don’t: use anything too drying on the skin. Be sure that your toners and clearing wipes are alcohol-free, and look for products with plant-based astringents instead. (Try: Neutrogena Alcohol-Free Toner)
Do: use weekly masks to perfect your complexion. Try a clay mask to minimise shine, or a hydrating gel mask for an instant moisture hit.
Don’t: forget that the sun damage from your teenage years will show up when you’re older – so always use an SPF!
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