The doctor’s orders for future-proofing your face and reclaiming your smooth, youthful glow. Yes it is possible…
Want to look ten years younger in ten years’ time? Start future-proofing now. Skincare expert Dr Gabrielle Caswell from the Cosmetic Physicians Society of Australasia reveals how to preserve and perfect your skin through every stage of life. Age gracefully – and gorgeously…
In your 20s
The skin situation
Welcome to the best decade of your skin’s life. With ample reserves of collagen, 20-something skin is also still packed with natural hydration. “One of the main ingredients that gives skin the glow of youth is hyaluronic acid, which is a sugar in the skin that complexes water [and] plumps the skin,” explains Caswell. “Also, though technically sun damage occurs before [this age], in the 20s accumulated sun damage has not been expressed.”
Your action plan
As the marks of time are more accurately the signs of UV exposure, sun protection is the most effective anti-ageing action to take, highlights Caswell. “I am also a strong advocate of vitamin A derivative creams to help preserve [the skin] as well as treat damaged cells. Vitamin A works on the DNA of dividing cells, encouraging the growth of healthy skin,” she adds. “Over the counter formulations have a pre-retinol [type of vitamin A]; a script from a doctor is needed for a ‘true retin’.” Preserving your skin’s hydration levels also helps retain the supple bloom of youth.
“This is when most women notice changes in their skin,” says Caswell. Fine lines become furrows, skin tone can become blotchy and the youthful glow can seem to fade. “Genetics [can influence] how marked the changes are,” explains Caswell, “[although] most of the changes are due to UV radiation.”
Your action plan
“I would suggest a strong home skincare programme … incorporating vitamin C, vitamin A and glycolic acid,” offers Caswell. Preparations from a cosmetic physician will be stronger than over the counter products, she emphasises. “In addition to home skincare, you might opt for vascular laser treatment for broken capillaries and you should have brown [liver or age] spots checked to ensure they are not skin cancer,” she says. “Two litres of water a day is recommended, as well as a diet high in omega 3 and 6. Evening primrose supplements can be helpful.”
Seeing sags, crow’s feet, hooded lids and permanent frown lines in the mirror? “The accumulation of sun damage will now lead to significant elastosis [the degeneration of elastic tissue],” explains Caswell. “Subcutaneous fat has also thinned, so the face can begin to look long or gaunt.” But the 40s face’s biggest fight is for lift, she says. “The loss of volume becomes [especially] obvious around the mouth and on the lips.”
Your action plan
You’re up against a lot, but all’s not lost. “Women can actually recapture youthfulness,” confirms Caswell. “Combined therapies give the best results.
“Women in their 40s can really benefit from retins [vitamin A derivatives], which will require a script from a doctor, and high potency vitamin C,” recommends Caswell. “A strong home programme will help with mottling, skin peels can help with surface pigmentation, laser [can treat] broken capillaries … volumising treatments are great to restore shape to the face.”
The turnover of fresher, brighter skin can be boosted with microdermabrasion and good hydration is also key, she explains.
“This woman is, generally, experiencing menopause and will notice a lot of changes as the skin is very oestrogen dependant,” explains Caswell. “When oestrogen stores deplete, the type of collagen made changes. She will show sagging, dry skin and [a lack of] luminosity. She [might also] complain about having to lift her upper lid to put her make-up on!
“The sagging and bagging is not only caused by collagen change, but also by … remodelling [of the] facial skeleton.
Your action plan
“If oestrogen creams as prescribed by a doctor are suitable, they can be used to … cause collagen to grow and plump the skin,” suggests Caswell. “Retins will also work, but both take time.” Dermal fillers are a quicker fix. Steeping the skin in moisture, antioxidants and anti-pigmentation ingredients can also increase smoothness and return radiance.
