“It will get worse before it gets better” is not an expression one typically likes to hear, especially when the topic is skin. But alas, skin purging is a very real thing that happens to many of us.
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And while purging skin does indicate the effectiveness of exfoliants and acne-fighting ingredients getting deep into the pores and bringing gunk quickly to the surface (good), it can also set off alarm bells and falsely lead us to believe our products are reacting badly with our skin (bad).
And so, we spoke to Desiree Stordahl, Paula’s Choice Senior Research & Education Manager, on how to identify the difference between a purge and a breakout so we’re never mistaken again.
When it comes to the physical appearance of both reactions, Paula says that “true acne will look more like red, swollen pimples”, while purging will look “more like bumps/whiteheads and in some cases, blackheads”.
However, an important factor to understand when assessing the two is that the real “difference comes down to physiology”.
Regular acne breakouts are formed as the response to a clog in a pore which “causes the lining to rupture, spilling the contents—oil, debris, and dead skin—into the surrounding skin”.
Following this “the acne-causing bacteria in and around the pore begin a feeding frenzy; triggering inflammation that results in a red, swollen pimple on the skin’s surface.”
Purging on the other hand, “brings the clog to the surface, which is why it looks more like congested bumps, whiteheads or blackheads”.
Main image credit: @ashleygraham
The unclogging of pores that would have made their way to the surface eventually, or “fast-tracking your way to clearer skin” as Paula puts it, isn’t anything to worry about. But a blemish no matter what the cause, is never fun.
A purging phase when using new products particularly “BHA or anti-acne products such as retinol and benzoyl peroxide” is not guaranteed to happen to all. If you do, however, find your skin purging, expect the adjustment period to last “two to four weeks”. If symptoms persist, consult a doctor or dermatologist to ensure you are not reacting.