AHAs in skin care: what they are and why you need them

So you’ve no doubt heard about AHAs and BHAs, mixed in with scary sounding terms like salicylic and lactic acids, but what are they really, and why is everyone talking about them? We spoke to Emma Hobson, Education Manager for the International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica to learn what they are, what they’re doing and how to best incorporate them into your skin care routine.
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What are AHAs?
Firstly, AHAs stands for Alpha Hydroxy Acids, “[they] have been a hot topic in skin care for over a decade for their efficiency in exfoliating the skin without need for friction. [They] are naturally occurring acids found in many foods, including glycolic (found in sugar cane), lactic acid (found in milk) and citric acids (found in citrus fruits) among others,” says Hobson.
What do AHAs do?
Hobson explains, “When applied to the skin, AHAs stimulate the exfoliation of surface skin cells by interfering with the (ionic) bonding between these cells. They break down the bonds holding skin cells together. This causes the sloughing off dull, rough skin and promotes cellular renewal by increasing cell turnover rates, so you have younger, plumper skin cells.” AHAs have a few other crucial roles too, including keeping the skin’s barrier function in good condition, preventing further damage, as well as increasing hydration levels, which in turns smooths wrinkles, evens out skin tone and in some cases eases skin congestion.
Why are AHAs a more effective exfoliant?
AHAs are what are known as a ‘chemical exfoliant’, rather than a ‘physical exfoliant’ (such as granular scrubs). What makes them more effective than using a physical exfoliant is that they penetrate more deeply than just the surface of your skin, as well as require less potentially irritating friction on the skin. “AHA's don't require any sloughing or friction to be applied to the skin to remove the dead skin cell therefore they reduce the incidence of possible skin sensitisation,” says Hobson.
How do I incorporate AHAs into my skin care routine?
This is where the Dermalogica Professional-Grade At-Home Rapid Reveal Peel comes in. Utilising a combination of AHAs (lactic acid and plant enzymes) this once a week at-home treatment works to “reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by removing dulling surface debris...resurfacing the skin and accelerating cell turnover.” Hobson explains that this is due to the fact that the exfoliating acids “not only affect the upper layers of the skin but impact the lower dermal layers too, helping to keep skin looking and feeling youthful.” In fact, Hobson says “research has shown AHAs to increase collagen density and dermal thickness, whilst promoting increased Hyaluronic Acid levels.” The best part about the Dermalogica Professional-Grade At-Home Rapid Reveal Peel is that it comes in 10 individual tubes for easy and clean application, so you can now get your best skin ever without having to leave the house.
Are AHAs right for my skin type?
AHAs work for almost every skin type in the right doses. “Anyone wanting to treat oily skin with breakouts, pigmentation and uneven skin tone, dehydration, dry, rough textured skin or skin reflecting signs of ageing,” should look into using an AHA base formula, explains Hobson.
Main image credit @lilireinhart
Have you used AHAs before? What do you think of the Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel?
51 Member Comments
Ive been keen to incorporate these into my routine as I've heard great things from dermatologist vloggers! I'm not sure if I would try that at home peel though. I've just ordered some exfoliating AHA wipes by Nip+Fab, excited to give them a whirl!
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Could be a bit harsh on sensitive skin if used daily
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Something I don't know a lot about but would love to discover more.
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I use AHA and BHA on and off just to give my skin some clarity but I can't overuse because my skin is sensitive.
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chemical exfoliant sounds scary
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My dry and mature skin responds well to glycolic acid (at least so far). Hopefully some reviews will be written for the Dermalogica Age Smart Rapid Reveal Peel soon.
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I use AHAs every day but not this brand. It's an AHA and BHA combo to help fade my sun damage.
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I would love to try the new Dermalogica mask
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Finally getting on board with this and have noticed a nice boost to my skin. I may have purchased a l o t of arbonne products. eeeep
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Repeat I don't like the idea for my sensitive skin
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I think I commented on this just recently ??
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Always need this as a reminder :)
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Interesting to know... But doesn't really appeal to me...
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Sounds good. I tend to contentrate on just using natural oils especially coconut oil which really cleared up my skin.
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Sensitive skin here, too.
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I'd love to try them all
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A little in moderation seems to do it for me.
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yup, good stuff but occasionally used. I thought why my face was so ...er...looking red/orange. Since just using natural oils and calendula infused at that, colour changed... brighter finally
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I had a facial last week and was advised to stop ALL acids. At least for awhile. Yes, you can overdo it on the acids and apparently I have thinned my skin quite a bit through my use of acids. Maybe we should start approaching acids as we would prescription medication - consult a professional first to get a recommendation for what's best suited for our circumstances lest we end up doing long term damage to our skin.
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I haven't tried any acids yet, but as I have sensitive skin I am a little weary. I will shop my stash though and I think I will try one in the coming months. Bookmarked this page for then :D
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I've recently tried The Ordinarys lactic acid. Still early days so can't really comment on effectiveness yet. Some good info here. Thanks BH
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Very informative article but still a bit wary after reading the other comments with regard to sensitive skin as I have sensitive skin as well.
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Interesting article. I probably need this and definitely fit into at least one of the skin types listed.
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I love chemical exfoliators, I use an acid toner or a mask and it really brightens and smoothes my skin
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I'm an AHA fan in a cautious way. I have not done a peel before. I'm not so sure I should be doing DIY peels, not with sensitive skin.
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