How do ‘needle’ patches and face creams actually work?

While microneedling has been on the beauty radar for quite some time, it’s only recently that ‘needle’ creams and patches have caught the attention of skin care aficionados around the world.Here, we delve into the science behind beauty’s biggest trend and uncover the brands and products leading the way.

What exactly is microneedling and what does it do?

In order to understand how needle patches and creams work, it is necessary to first look at their skin-loving predecessor.Microneedling, in its full treatment form, involves using a roller with very fine, short needles to create microscopic punctures in the skin that promote cell renewal, boost collagen production and reduce acne by triggering the body’s wound healing process.”When there is a small bit of bleeding, platelets leave the blood vessels and get exposed to the surrounding tissue. This causes a reaction whereby the platelets excrete hormones and growth factors which cause the stimulation of fibroblasts and other collagen producing cells to start increasing their production. This in turn results in more elastic and rejuvenated skin,” Dr Michael Prager, leading London-based cosmetic pratitioner, explained.As terrifying as having a needle in your face sounds, the treatment is considered minimally invasive and the punctures are akin to pin-pricks that only go surface-level deep.Once the punctures have been made, topical products such as hyaluronic acid or vitamin C, are able to enter the skin more deeply, thereby increasing their efficacy.Unlike dermarollers, which contain ultra-tiny needles that are 0.3 mm or smaller, proper microneedles can possess needles with a width ranging anywhere from 0.5 mm to 2 mm.

How do ‘needle’ patches and creams work?

Despite their name, ‘needle’ face creams don’t contain any actual metal needles in them (thank goodness). Instead, they are formulated with ingredients that mimic the action and role of microneedling in a topical product.The patches, which are typically used for acne and under eye brightening, feature self-dissolving microdarts that contain active ingredients that penetrate two layers deep into the skin upon application.Australian brand ZitSticka, for example, focuses on acne prevention by filling its patches’ microdarts with a combination of salicylic acid, niacinamide and oligopeptide-76 to prevent pimples before they fully erupt.While these methods are new to beauty, the technology behind the patch has been utilised by the medical industry for years through transdermal patches that deliver insulin into the bloodstream of diabetic patients.

How long does it take before you see results?

Results can show up within as little 20 minutes, making patches the perfect pick-me-up before a party. For best results, experts recommend wearing the patches overnight (up to 12 hours) to allow the active ingredients to fully penetrate the skin.That being said, the results are temporary and won’t tackle deeper wrinkles in the same way as cosmetic treatments such as Botox.

Why choose these over microneedling?

While microneedling requires a separate tool and a dermatologist or cosmetic therapist to administer the treatment, “needle” infused skin care provides similar benefits without the added hassle.

The products to try

Interested in trying the needle trend? Read on for the best products out right now.

ZitSticka Killa Kit

111SKIN Meso Infusion Overnight Micro Mask

Goldfaden MD Needle-Less

VICE REVERSA Transdermal Microneedling Plumping Patches

Words by Sukriti Wahi Main image credit: @ZitSticka Have you ever tried any kind of mirconeedling patches or creams?