These are the ‘new makeup rules’ for women over 40, according to a celebrity MUA

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When it comes to beauty rules, quite frankly, we don’t believe there are any. However, when a celebrity makeup artist offers a fresh perspective from tricks gathered over a 30-year-long career (and one that includes clients like Gwenyth Paltrow and Cindy Crawford), we are at least a little curious…

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A strong believer that ‘beauty is enhanced by age’, Riku Campo’s latest book I Am Beauty: Timeless Skincare and Beauty for Women 40 and Over, focuses less on anti-ageing skin care and more on how we can tweak our current makeup routine to best complement a more ‘mature’ complexion.

So, according to Riku’s latest book, these are the ‘new makeup rules’ for your 40’s and beyond…

Avoid heavy bases

According to Riku, as we age our skin naturally loses hydration which leads to  an overall dryer texture. As a result, he reveals that stick foundations, CC creams and BB creams are too dry and heavy for mature skin and recommends sticking to a tinted moisturiser or concealer only to cover blemishes or dark spots, for a more natural and hydrated result.

bh recommends: Natio Tinted Moisturiser SPF 20

Opt for a cream blush

“I like to use cream blush on mature women because it looks the most natural, glides on smoothly and blends perfectly,” says Riku, while warning to avoid powdered blush products as they can “bring out fine lines”. When it comes to picking the colour, a general rule of thumb to follow is: “the lighter your skin, the lighter your blush should be”.

bh recommends: Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Cream Blushulta3 Blush Sculpt Stick

Keep brows natural

Riku is a big advocate for a natural brow, saying that, “eyebrows shouldn’t be the main focus of your makeup”. However,  as we age the brows will thin and become uneven so it’s still important to fill the gaps.

He recommends a brow colour “one shade lighter than or the same colour as your natural brows” in either powder or pencil, used to create small hair-like strokes where needed..

bh recommends: Estée Lauder Automatic Brow Pencil DuoElizabeth Arden Beautiful Color Natural Eye Brow Pencil 

Avoid glitter

“For daytime, eyeshadow finishes should be matte. For evening, you can choose a light-reflecting shadow but nothing that contains glitter”. The reasoning? Riku says eyeshadows that are overly pigmented with glitter will get stuck in fine lines and creases.

bh recommends: M.A.C Art Library – Nude Model PaletteClinique All About Shadow 

Waterproof eyeliners and mascara

As we get older, our eyes tend to be more prone to watering. So if you’re using a mascara or eyeliner, always opt for a waterproof product. Riku advises that  “they dry fast, so blend and soften the line right after you apply it”.

bh recommends: Rimmel 100% Waterproof MascaraLancôme Artliner Laque 24H

Embrace lipsticks

Similar to glitter eyeshadow, Riku suggests avoiding lip glosses as they can “feather away into fine lines around the lips”. But don’t be discouraged that you’re missing out on all the fun, because what he does suggest you should be wearing is COLOUR!

Image credit: Getty

Swearing by a red lip, which he believes is “the classiest makeup look ever”, Riku is all for a statement pout. He favours deeper browns, bright oranges or blue-ish reds for darker skin tones; deep rose, hot pinks and cooler red for olive undertones and for fair skin or blue undertone skin, light rose or bright fuschias are the ones he finds most complementary.

bh recommends: Revlon Super Lustrous™ The Luscious MattesBurt’s Bees 100% Natural LipstickRageism Beauty Matte Lipstick

Main image credit: Getty 

Do you have any tips for makeup when you’re 40 or over? Will you try these?

Share your thoughts

Comments 40

  1. Will definitely take some of the advice regarding makeup for older women, will buy a cream blush next time I need some blush. Cannot wear bright coloured lipsticks, still like lipgloss but it is more like a lipstick, but I do use lipgloss have been toning down my makeup need to get a lighter eyebrow pomade if I can.

    Thanks BH for the Great Advice!!!

  2. Great advice. Sadly my skin texture means wearing powder makeup makes my complexion dull flat and dry looking. Light cream makeup all the way with a small amount of pressed powder to set if absolutely necessary.

  3. He’s got some good advice, but I don’t think there should be ‘rules’ when it comes to makeup. Your makeup is about you, and how it makes you feel. I’m 52, and if I want to wear a bit of glitter, I’m not going to stop just because the ‘rules’ state that I can’t do so. (The best glitter for grown ups is Hourglass scattered light eyeshadows. Stunning!)

  4. There’s some good advice here. I use a lightweight BB cream which is the perfect shade for me because I haven’t found a tinted moisturiser that is the right shade. I’m wearing my fuschia lipstick at the moment and I stick with cream blushes because I find them more flattering.

  5. I like seeing make-up articles for older women, I have had some trouble especially with eye make-up and find that I can’t do the things i used to. Wasn’t really into glitter much but even shimmery eyeshadows that I used to love can show up the bad texture on my crepey eyelids now 🙁

    Not sure about no BB cream – I am still able to use asian ones without issue. I always wear it over moisturiser and sunscreen though.

  6. There are some really good advice and tips in this article. My eyes definitely water more often now that I am older. I have also been thinking of switching to cream blushes for a long time but I find powder blushes tend to have more long stay.

  7. I find a stronger looking brow can help lift the look of eyelids that can droop with age, alot of it is good advice but I don’t like ‘rules’ , why should I start following them now I’m over 40?

  8. With beauty, there is no rules. Though have noticed when girls in 20s wear bronzers , blushes, thick base, zillions of products to finish the “look”…. insta makeup etc. they always look way older. So maybe one rule : don’t do insta makeup?

  9. I have said all my life that if I am lucky enough to get old I shall be growing old disgracefully. I will look however I want that makes me happy and I’ve never been into rules anyway. I still have the oily skin I had as a teenager so a powder blush is a must for me and not too heavy like I find creams. I also don’t have any lines where blush is put so I guess for me it’s fine. But I really don’t care what other people think anyway. Do what makes you happy <3.

  10. Wearing soft, understated make-up always invariably looks elegant. Prepping the skin is of far more importance – a lipstick applied correctly with primer, lip pencil, a couple of layers of lipstick blotted in between, (no matter the colour as long as it suits your skin tone) looks great.

  11. I had to laugh at the comment “eyebrows shouldn’t be the main focus of your makeup”. Seems these days that too many people ignore that rule and end up with eyebrows that, according to my husband, look like caterpillars!! They look truly awful.

  12. Makeup can be flattering or unflattering regardless of your age. Experimenting is key. I’ve had my makeup done professionally on a few occasions where the makeup was flawless and youthful and other times where it accentuates every line and wrinkle. It’s not really a one size fits all!

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