How To Apply Eyeliner For Your Eye Shape

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EYELINER FOR EYE SHAPE

You know that high neck singlet that suits your sister with the small bust, but makes you feel like you’re strapped into a sausage casing? Yep, well, the same goes for eye makeup. What works for one shape, won’t work for another. 

So while we lust over that corner-to-corner cat eye we’ve seen on Instagram, our close-set eyes may not receive it the same way a rounder shape would. And vice versa. 

Whether we’re elongating, lifting upward or making them appear as doe-eyed as ever, it’s crucial when we apply eyeliner that we’re playing to our strengths. Whether it’s a thicker top liner, a bold colour in the centre, or perhaps nothing at all, these are all the tips and techniques you need to follow to make sure your eyeliner is married up to your eye shape.

ROUND

Round eyes are large and quite wide.

round eyes

How do I know if I have round eyes?
If you can see white above or below your iris when you are looking straight ahead, you have round eyes. 

How should I apply my eyeliner?
Most roundies want to elongate their eyes. To do so, try lining the outer edges of your lash line, or go for a long winged look. You could also try applying a liquid liner like the Automatic Beauty Liquid Eyeliner Black ($18 at Wcosmetics.com.au) or MUD Liquid Eyeliner ($5 at Woolworths) to your upper lash line, all the way from the inner corner to the outer.

round eyes

ALMOND 

Just like the delicious snack, almond eyes will be pointed in the inner corner, rounded in the centre and ever-so-slightly lifted towards the end. 

How do I know if I have almond eyes?
When you look straight ahead your iris disappears into your upper and lower eyelids.

How should I apply my eyeliner?
Our one word of advice, go nuts with winged liner. This sleek look will perfectly complement the natural curves of your eyes. For bonus points, give the liner a good flick up at the end. 

If you want to use a regular pencil like the ulta3 Kajal Eyeliner Pencil ($4.95 at Ulta3) or the Bourjois Clubbing Waterproof Eyeliner Pencil ($19 at Priceline), take note of your eye size before you start. For small eyes, draw a thin line and for bigger eyes, you can go a bit thicker.

CLOSE-SET 

Close-set eyes don’t have much room between them.

How do I know if I have close-set eyes?
Check out the gap between the inside corners of your eyes. Can you fit another eye in that space? If not, then you have close-set eyes. 

How should I apply my eyeliner?
When you have close-set eyes, you want to focus on the outer corners of your eyes. According to celeb makeup artist Max May, “you want to make the eyes appear wider and longer, so the first port of call would be to smoke the outer third of the eye,”  he explained to FEMAIL.

To best achieve this result, use a soft pencil like the L’Oréal Paris Colour Riche Le Smokey Pencil Eyeliner ($19.49 at Chemist Warehouse) and start your application in the centre of the lid, extending outward. Leave your inner-corner liner-free. 

close set eyes

WIDE-SET

As Max puts it, “wide-set is the ultimate shape – it’s the most desired ever,” which is why some of the world’s top models, like Kate Moss and Gemma Ward have this eye shape in common. 

wide set eyes

How do I know if I have wide-set eyes?
If the gap between the inner corners of your eyes is big enough to fit more than one eye, then you, my friend, have wide-set eyes.

How should I apply my eyeliner?
Well, according to Max, you should actually forgo eyeliner altogether. 

“Try not to over-emphasise them. Just curl your lashes and go natural, perhaps focusing on another area of the face like the lips or cheeks. Let your beautiful eyes do their job.” Say no more.

DOWNTURNED

Downturned eyes drop towards the outer corner. 

downturned eyes

How do I know if I have downturned eyes?
Hold a thin piece of string directly across the centre of your eye; if the outer corner dips down below the string, you have downturned eyes. 

How should I apply my eyeliner?
Draw an ultra-thin cat eye across the top lash line, flicking it upwards to create instant lift at the outer corner. Max recommends “[leaving] the under area completely bare as heavy colours will drag the eye down.” And to “concentrate on a really beautiful highlight around the inner corner of the eye as well as on the top of the cheek to divert attention to the cheekbone.” 

We recommend using The Body Shop 2-in-1 Gel Liner, Clinique Powder Pop Flower Highlighter ($56 at Myer) and the Bobbi Brown Highlighting Powder ($80 at Bobbi Brown). 

PROMINENT/PROTRUDING

Think Amanda Seyfried or Emma Stone. Prominent eyes are the main ingredient of a doe-eyed stare.

protruding eyes

How do I know if I have prominent eyes?
Prominent eyes bulge outwards from the eye socket, meaning that you’d have a lot of your eyelids visible. 

How should I apply my eyeliner?
This eye shape thrives with a smokey shadow as it counteracts the appearance of protruding eyes by making them seem slightly more deeper set. Thick liners like the Clarins 3-Dot Liner ($40 at Adore Beauty) or Estée Lauder Automatic Eye Pencil Duo ($44 at Fragrancesandcosmetics.com.au) placed along the top lash line from corner to corner are also favoured. And when it comes to the bottom lash line, there are no hard and fast rules. Play around and see what you prefer. 

protruding eyes

MONOLIDS

Monolid translates to “single lid” AKA, no crease.

monolids

How do I know if I have monolids?
Flat and barely have a crease. The brow bone is also less defined. 

How should I apply my eyeliner?
When lining your top lash line, start off with a thin line at the inner corner and make it thicker as  you go along. A monolid also offers the perfect canvas to play around with dramatic winged liner and cat eye looks. We love the Lancôme Artliner Laque 24H ($58 at Adore Beauty) and Elizabeth Arden Beautiful Color Bold Defining 24HR Liquid Eye Liner ($27.20 at Adore Beauty) for a precise and longer-lasting wing.

sandra oh

HOODED LIDS

Hooded eyes typically means you have less eyelid space.

hooded eyes

How do I know if I have hooded lids?
If you notice that your eyelid droops down over the crease when your eyes are open, you’re the proud owner of some hooded lids. 

How should I apply my eyeliner?
Use eyeliner to make your eyes appear wider. Start by thickening your lash base by applying a liner like the M.A.C Brushstroke Liner ($40 at M.A.C) between the roots of your lashes. Be sure to apply your liner at the outer corner of your eye, finishing with a healthy lick of mascara. We recommend the CLINIQUE Chubby Lash Fattening Mascara ($40 at Myer). 

hooded eyes

Which eye shape do you have? Do you have any tips for accentuating your shape?

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Comments 50

  1. I think I have almond eyes and I like a little flick on the top lid of the outer eye! Also the eyeliner mentioned Bourjois Waterproof Clubbing Eyeliner is one of my favourites as you can do a straight line or smudge it a bit like khol.

  2. Think that I have Almond Shaped Eyes, don’t use liquid eyeliner anymore now I use a Waterproof Eyeliner Pencil in a shade of Brown, it isn’t as heavy as the liquid eyeliner, on a older woman I hope not at all.
    Thanks BH for the Great Advice on this Website.

  3. I have hooded eyes which I’m bummed about because I’ve really got into playing with eyeshadow lately. I think they’re slightly almond BUT are beginning to droop due to age.

  4. I’ve always thought that my eyeshadow creased because my lids were too oily but how can they be oily and dry at the same time? So the fact that they are hooded is making me rethink my eye products and perhaps I need to really moisturise my eyelids before applying eyeshadow primer. And drink more water (as I make myself another cup of coffee, as we all know doesn’t count)

  5. Mine too Okatko, plus I’ve got itchy eyelids at the moment which I think is due to tired eyes (probably too much screen time), so my eyelids look very dry and awful.

  6. OMG I hadn’t even thought of balm. I’ve got a couple of balm type products that are all purpose that I’ve thought “what am I going to use that for?” and that’s my answer. I’ll give it a go, but hopefully I can then layer it with eyeshadow primer. THANKYOU S-P

  7. I drink lots of tea and coffee during the day, but I also have a lot of water, so I don’t know if hydration is my problem. I’ve tried different moisturizers on my eyelids and find that the moisturizer eventually makes it’s way into my eyes and I then have to wash everything off. I’ve also tried lip balm/chapstick on my eyelids and it works at stopping the itchiness and doesn’t seep into my eyes. I’m going to also try cucumber slices next as I’ve read that cucumber contains acids that will help.

  8. For decades I had almond ones but over the last five years I now have hooded almonds! Okay I think I just invented a new category and I didn’t think that would have been possible with that amazingly comprehensive list. Geesh trust me to be different and not fit into just one of these categories nice and neatly!!