Dark days indeed

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Dark days indeed

If I were British Prime Minister Gordon Brown, I’d be feeling a little nervous right now. I’d be calling crisis meetings with my cabinet and maybe putting a tea chest up against the door at Number 10. Because if I were him and I’d seen the looks thrown at London Fashion Week (and if I was in charge of England, obviously I’d be front row with Sienna. Priorities.), I’d recognise the make-up of malcontent.

They say fashion takes the social temperature, so if there’s a beauty barometer too, just read these lips…

The runway: Modernist

The look: Creepy. First neutralised with taupe liner, lips were layered with mauvish pink lipstick to fashion a cold pink finish. And that might have looked ice queen-chic, I think – if inner-lips weren’t then dusted with the kind of blue that makes a girl look like she’s breathing out an Arctic draught. Or not breathing at all. Likening the look to Laura Palmer in Twin Peaks, make-up artist Georgina Graham called the funereal feel “sort of beautifully dead”. More like sort of disturbing.

The runway: Nathan Jenden

The look: Manga mixed with garish David Bowie glam. Beneath cheekbones gashed with aubergine eyeshadow, grapey pigment or cold pink blush, cupid’s points were pointed into a pronounced geisha bow. With whitewashed, mascara-less eyes, the rich blackish purple lipstick made models look like the cranky characters in a Japanese cartoon.

The runway: Giles

The look: These were the patent leather lips of a sophisticated goth. Worn with satiny pink fabrics and near-naked eyes, the glassy onyx mouths came across more I’m-moneyed-but-I’m-mad than deluxe dominatrix. Fierce.

The runway: Gareth Pugh

The look: Pugh’s last collection evoked Juliet in bondage. This season seemed more about kooky Klingon girls. Make-up artist Alex Box said he was inspired by old black and white movies and the art of painting lips blue so they would appear brown or black on screen, but, in full Technicolor, the beaming blue lips worn with electric teal/turquoise eyes (and brows!) looked more pop art vs. futuristic spacegirl to me. And I mean the sort of spacegirl on a mission to enslave the entire planet.

Summary: runways not exactly radiating happy optimism.

Equally alarming, loads of lashes were worn minus mascara. Quake. I’m with Gordon Brown. Let’s forget these looks ever happened…

Images courtesy MAC First Look

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