Eyeshadow is often thought of as a ‘one size fits all’ situation. Put a darker colour here, a lighter one there, and voila! But eyeshadow is so much more than a few colour-coordinated shades placed on your eyelids. When applied correctly, it has the power to accentuate your peepers and create a stare that commands attention. When it comes to your makeup, knowledge is power. Working out your eye shape and then finding the most flattering way to apply makeup for it is a total game changer.
We spoke to Annabelle Hogg, Queensland’s State Makeup Artist for Lancôme, to find out how to apply eye makeup for your eye shape.
For those with big, beautiful round eyes, Annabelle says that elongating the eye shape is key. “Use natural tones to soften the natural crease in and add soft highlights under the tail end of the brow and inner corner to create the illusion that the length of the eye is longer than it is.” Add definition by using a liquid liner with a fine tip along the top lash line. “Finish the liner with a slight wing to add some kick to the finished look,” says Annabelle.
Lucky you, almond eyes are often thought of as the most desireable eye shape. As they are already symmetrical, most looks work well on almond eyes. Annabelle suggests focusing on a perfect application technique. “Ensure a blending tone is always used to ensure a seamless finish.” Add eyeliner and mascara to finish the look. To enhance your eyes more, Annabelle suggests “using a similar yet brighter tone to add a pop of colour to the centre of the eyelid, just above the lash line, to create a more 3D finish for a perfected, flawless eye.”
When it comes to accentuating small eyes, Annabelle says it’s best to keep it fresh. “Use natural shadows with slight iridescence to brighten the eye area and shape the shadow to the angle of the lash line, and tail of the brow to create the illusion of larger [and] more open eyes.” To make eyes appear even bigger, try applying a beige or soft white kohl eyeliner on the water line of the lower lashes.
Close-set eyes can easily be made to look more balanced and symmetrical. “Contrast with eyeshadows added to the outer thirds of the eyes using more medium tones to subtly give the illusion that the eyes are more symmetrical to other facial features,” says Annabelle. If you’re going to apply eyeliner, Annabelle suggests starting the application in the middle of the eyelid and then winging the liner outwards. “This will assist in making the eye shape look more symmetrical and almond-shaped.”
If you have wide-set eyes, you can use eyeshadow to create the illusion that your eyes are closer together. “Start by applying your lightest shade of shadow as your base all over the eyelid, then deepen your tones by layering darker and warmer tones,” explains Annabelle. Rather than going for a simple winged liner, Annabelle says those with wide-set eyes should use liner on both the top and bottom lash line in order to maximise the eye shape and size. “Don’t be afraid to emphasise the space you’ve got and make it a statement!”
Deep-set eyes are large and set back further into the skull, so highlighting the eyelids to bring the eyes forward is key. “When adding darker tones keep them soft and apply them in [a] crescent shape from the outer lash line through to the eyelid crease,” says Annabelle. Avoid using a harsh liner on deep-set eyes. Instead, wet a dark eyeshadow and apply that instead. “This will create definition without narrowing the eyelid width.”
If you have monolid eyes, Annabelle says the best application technique is to first use a kohl pencil to create a ‘fake crease’. “Do this by looking straight in the mirror and marking a dot using the kohl pencil where your crease should sit, softly join this up with the end of your lash line then use a flat brush to blend the kohl into the eyelid.” This allows you to apply eyeshadow over the top to create the illusion of almond-shaped eyes. “Highlight the inner corner of the eye and finish with a line line of liquid liner to shape the lid for its new ‘almond’ look,” continues Annabelle.
If you have hooded eyes, you might find eyeshadow difficult to work with, but it can be used to create a beautiful eye look. Annabelle says that hooded eyes need hardly any highlighting and to focus on shaping the eyes with darker shades. “Focus on applying darker shadows to the crease and blending through with medium tones for a rounder look to the eye.” You can soften the look by adding a lighter tone to the inner corners of the eyes.
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Will you be trying these eye makeup tips for your eye shape? What are your favorite eyeshadow tricks?