Help, I need somebody!

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Help, I need somebody!

It appears you had a make-up dilemma or two leading up to the festive season judging by the amount of Ask us questions we’ve received in bh HQ recently.
And who better to turn to than Annesley Broadhead, international training director at Cargo Cosmetics (and bh fairy godmother) to solve your party problems? Cinderella shall go to the ball! 

Picture perfect

“In photos I always seem to look deathly white and shiny; what can I do or use to avoid this?” – Lipstick Lovie, NSW

There are a couple of things that might be happening; if you are using a lot of sunscreen, the titanium dioxide can appear quite white-looking on film so I would suggest using a good foundation and powder over your sunscreen. The other possibility is that your foundation and powder are a little too pale: try going up half a shade to give a bit of glow to your complexion.

A good bronzing powder like Cargo Cosmetics The Big Bronzer will add a little boost of colour when applied after your foundation and powder and I also love the new blu_ray Blush/Highlighter: it actually has photochromatic pigments that adapt to lighting and was made especially with high definition filming in mind.

All white on the night

“My lip balm and gloss turns white at the edges of my mouth. I’ve tried lots of different types and tried putting varying amounts on my lips with pretty much the same result – a white line of residue at the corners and often all around – which I’m not usually aware of until I look in a mirror. Do you know what causes this?” – R, WA

The culprit in this case is dehydration! In my personal experience the only time this happens to me is when I have not had enough water during the day. When I drink lots of fluids I do not seem to have this problem. Drink lots of water to perfect a perfect pout!

Cool runnings

“I’ve had my colours done and apparently I’m a winter person – what does that mean and what make-up should I use and avoid?” – Kim

Lucky you! That means you get to wear all those fabulous true colours like red, purple and royal blue. What it means to be a winter person is that you have an olive complexion (more yellow than pink); an olive complexion can range from very fair porcelain skin tones to deep ebony skin tones.

Since your skin tone is more yellow than pink you will tend to look best in shades that have a blue or pink base to them (otherwise known as cool colours). Cool colours in the winter family include white, black, dark grey, rich red, fuchsia, purple, navy, royal blue and emerald green.

“How do you decide which colours look good on you? For example, I have black hair and light blue eyes and don’t know what colours to wear?” – Jessica, UK

Choosing colours that work for you is a combination of your colouring, your style and your taste.

To enhance blue eyes you can use warm golds and earth tones that will pop and contrast your eye color. Cool shades like lilac and silver could also look very pretty with your eyes and your hair colour. If you choose a warm shadow palette keep your cheek and lip colour in the same family and if you choose a cool eye shadow palette opt for cool tones on the lips on cheeks. But most of all have fun with colour and don’t get bogged down with lots of rules. Think of make-up like the ultimate handbag or pair of shoes; it’s an accessory so play around and use it to express your style and personality.

Primary concerns

“Should primer be applied over moisturiser, under moisturiser, or without moisturiser? Also, does primer cause the foundation to change its texture or appearance?” – Heather, QLD

Generally primer is used under one’s foundation and over moisturiser to even out the pores and allow the foundation to spread more smoothly. You should always be sure to allow your moisturiser to fully absorb before applying primer or any make-up.  

Primer shouldn’t make the foundation change texture, but rather allow it to blend more easily. Primer is made to make your foundation work better for you and last longer during the day, think of it like priming your walls before applying paint.

Eye spy

“No matter how much make-up I apply, my puffy eyes are still obvious. What can I do to make them less so?” – Jan, QLD

I am quite familiar with this problem since I also have puffy eyes – especially in the morning. I personally like to call them ‘bedroom eyes’ but perhaps that’s pushing our luck?!

The first thing is to be sure to avoid salty foods and sugar as it can make puffiness worse. Also avoid applying eye cream or night cream on the lids at night because this can make the lids puffy. In terms of make-up application, stay away from light shimmery shades on the lids and in the crease area; use only under the brow bone to “lift’ the eye. Apply your make-up in a rainbow effect going from dark on the lid, medium in the crease and light under the brow. Stick to neutral shades, avoid pink and purple tones and play up your lashes with lots of mascara. A bit of colour close to the lash line will also distract from the puffy crease area.  

Brushing up

“What is the difference between natural, synthetic and fibre optic make-up brushes?” – Annie, SA

Natural brushes offer the best quality for make-up application and have been used for years by the industry’s make-up artists. They are made from various types of animal hair such as sable and are durable (they last for years if properly looked after). Natural hairs complement the skin just like a natural bristle body brush or hairbrush. They also hold and deposit powder pigments like shadow and blush evenly onto the skin.  

Synthetic brushes are typically made from nylon and are good for using with oily or liquid formulations such as foundations and lipsticks. This is because they wash out easily.

Fibre optic brushes offer the latest in brush technology. They are carefully crafted brushes that typically have white synthetic feather-like hairs that extend past where the normal black goat hairs end. The soft ‘fibre optic’ hairs allow you to apply blush, powders and shimmers with a very light touch. For example, if you want to use a very dark blush or highly pigmented colour but your regular blush brush will apply it too heavily, the fibre optic brush is the answer: it will apply the product with the lightest touch.

Laying down some foundations

“I’ve read a lot about warm and cool skin types. In terms of finding a foundation that matches my skin perfectly, how do I determine which one I am?” – Lauren, NZ

Throw that warm and cool stuff out the door and keep it simple. Opt for a foundation that is neutral in undertone with an equal balance of warm and cool.  My rule is to start with three shades for testing. Swipe one of each shade along the jaw line and into the cheek area. The shade that disappears and looks like your skin after blending is the one for you.

Annesley’s top tips for the party season:

Pop the eyes with metallic shadows such as silver and gold

Enhance the lashes with a good lash building mascara and a dramatic set of false lashes

Experiment with colour either on the lips or on the eyes

ALWAYS carry a pressed powder so you can be camera ready at all times – Cargo Cosmetics blu_ray Pressed Powder would be my pick

Line the inner rims of the eyes with black liner for instant drama

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